ALL OF OUR BULBS AND DAY LILY PLANTS ARE SHIPPED IN POTTING MIX, ALLOWING THEM TO GROW AND STAY HEALTHY AND CAN BE STORED FOR EXTENDED PERIODS IN A COOL, DARK, DRY PLACE BEFORE PLANTING.

Basic Lily Planting and Care Guide

Loved for 3,000 Years History buffs will be pleased to note that lilies have been gracing gardens in various parts of the word for over 3,000 years. That's a long time. While the lily varieties on this website haven't been around that long, they do spring from genetic pools that originated when many of the world's peoples were still nomadic hunters and gathers. As you experiment with new types of lilies, take pride in knowing that you are part of a tradition that stretches back to almost 1000 B.C. Pretty cool!

Outdoor Beds

1. Find a location where the soil drains well. If there are still water puddles 5-6 hours after a hard rain, scout out another site. Or amend the soil with the addition of organic material to raise the level 2"-3" to improve the drainage. Peat moss, compost, ground bark or decomposed manure all work well and are widely available. Lilies prefer soils with average richness and moisture; they will not thrive in wet soils and the bulbs will rot.

2. Site your lilies where they'll receive full day for a minimum of four hours and no longer than six hours, and afternoon shade. We have found this situation is best especially for longer lasting blooms. However, you can plant them in full sun all day. Dig holes and plant the lilies 4"-6" deep and about 5-6" apart. Plant the bulbs with the flat side down and the garlic-like cloves facing up.

3. Dig holes and plant the lilies 4"-6" deep and about 6" apart. Plant the bulbs with the flat side down and the garlic-like cloves facing up.

4. After planting, water generously to settle to soil around the bulbs. Root and top growth will develop quickly and you'll likely see sprouts in a few weeks. Speed of growth is dependent on soil and air temperature; the warmer the temperature, the faster the growth.

5. Provide supplemental water, as needed in the spring and summer; about 1" per week is a good general estimate. The soil can be allowed to dry out in the late fall and winter when the lilies are dormant. Keep in mind that occasional deep waterings are better than frequent lighter drinks.

6. Flowers develop during the late spring and through summer, feel free to cut for bouquets. The generally accepted rule of thumb is to cut no more than one third of the stem. This ensures that there will be sufficient foliage left to nourish the bulb for next year's show.

7. After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don’t cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed. Leaves and stalks may be removed when they yellow.

8. Your lilies will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle in spring.

Pots, Barrels, Tubs & Urns

1. Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil (use our Power Grow Potting Mix for best results, we have tested this potting mix and found it works best). Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; lily bulbs must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot. Keep in mind the mature size of the varieties you have chosen and plan your container sizes accordingly.

2. Site your lilies where they'll receive full day for a minimum of four hours and no longer than six hours, and afternoon shade. We have found this situation is best especially for longer lasting blooms and Oriental lilies.

3. Dig holes and plant the lilies 6-7" deep and about 5-6" apart. Plant the bulbs with the flat side down and the garlic-like cloves facing up.

4. After planting, water generously to settle to soil around the bulbs. Root and top growth will develop quickly and you'll likely see sprouts in a few weeks. Speed of growth is dependent on soil and air temperature; the warmer the temperature, the faster the growth.

5. Provide supplemental water, as needed in the spring and summer; about 1" per week is a good general estimate. The soil can be allowed to dry out in the late fall and winter when the lilies are dormant. Keep in mind that occasional deep waterings are better than frequent lighter drinks.

6. Flowers develop during the summer, feel free to cut for bouquets. The generally accepted rule of thumb is to cut no more than one third of the stem. This ensures that there will be sufficient foliage left to nourish the bulb for next year's show.

7. After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don’t cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed. Leaves and stalks may be removed when they yellow.

8. Your lilies will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle in spring.

General Care

Pests (including insects and diseases) will attack an unhealthy plant before a healthy one. So, in order to have healthy plants and beautiful flowers, follow these general care recommendations:

• Should insects or diseases appear, treat with a systemic fungicide or insecticide immediately. There are a lot of natural products to eliminate insects (not so many for diseases) but timing is an issue and many repeated treatments are necessary for natural products to be affective.

• Control weeds through mulching. Keep the soil around the bulbs moderately moist at all times (except when you are drying off bulbs at the end of the season). Remove dead blooms before they produce seeds. Seed set will reduce flowering the next season.

Fertilizing

Over the last ten years, we have tested many variations and timing of fertilizers. This is what we found works the best:

• For healthier, longer lasting plants and blooms, plus true and brighter color, feed your bulbs a minimum of twice yearly. Use our Power Grow Fall Fertilizer (9-0-19 80% slow Release) at time of planting and top dress every year thereafter in the fall. You do not need to dig your bulbs for them to benefit from a fall feeding (although it is best). Once the lily is emerging in the Spring, wait until the sprout is about 4 inches in height then use our Power Grow Four Month Spring Fertilizer with Calcium (14-0-0 17 CA). Our fertilizer is in pellet form, so it is very easy to apply.
  

Digging & Replanting

• Lily bulbs grow best if left in the ground year after year. However, they may become crowded and bloom poorly after a few years. Digging them up and replanting will promote regular flowering and larger flowers. After digging up lily bulbs, store them for a few days in a dry, well-ventilated place away from the sun. Remove the roots, dead leaves, and soil, and place the clean bulbs in a single layer in trays to store them. More Information
  

For more detailed information on how to grow lily bulbs, pest management, and more see our articles located in our Home web page.

Tips:

1. Plant lilies so they bloom in succession; this provides the greatest number of flowers from the same garden footprint. Asiatics flower early in the summer, Trumpets and Orientals bloom later.

2. Lilies never slip into full dormancy like many other type of bulbs do, tulips and daffodils, for example. So lilies have the urge to grow when semi-dormant and often develop sprouts even when kept in ideal temperature and humidity conditions. Handle with care at this stage so the sprouts don't snap off.

3. Many lilies offer incredible fragrance and are excellent for bouquets. Orientals are the premiers for fragrance and bouquets.